Meatloafs aplenty, from the 'Douglaston Cookbook'
IS THERE ANY recipe that is more representative of all-American comfort food than meatloaf? We TSP sisters think not, and apparently generations of ladies agree with us. There are so many meatloaf recipes in our ever-growing collection of recipe boxes and “ladies auxiliary” cookbooks we almost don’t know where to begin. But we’ve never let that stop us before. No matter that two of us are vegetarians–the other two are happy omnivores. We’ve braved the wilds of meatloaf history, and returned with the recipes, some scary, some appetizing, to prove it.
As with our inquiry into the mysterious origins of tuna casserole, the story of meatloaf is less innocent than you might expect. The first reports of meatloaf-like dishes are ancient–even Apicius, an anonymous culinary chronicle of Rome circa 400-500 A.D., included meatloaf-like meatballs and minces.
But modern meatloaf originated in the late 19th century, when both ground meat, and the tools to grind raw meat at home, first became commercially available. Cooks, used to making their minces with cooked meat, and concerned about the quick-to-spoil nature of ground meat, were resistant. Companies that manufactured meat grinders designed for the home cook were among the first to publish meatloaf-like recipes, and others followed. You’ll notice quite a few cans of soup called for in these midcentury treasures, which makes us wonder: Are all our comfort foods the creations of corporate kitchens?
From 'Sister's Kitchen Secrets', Compiled by Sister's Home Demonstration Club, Sandersville, GA
Maybe so, but leave it to the many cooking sisterhoods to take those recipes and make them their own. Whether it’s one of four versions from Marion Roach Smith’s mother-in-law’s Christmas at Monroe Methodist Church collection, or the Aberdeen Roll (boiled, not baked!) from Margaret Roach and Marion’s grandmother’s hometown volume, The Douglaston Cookbook, or the anonymous, “I’m not meatloaf! I’m steak! Really!” recipe for “Say It’s Sirloin,” little variations make these recipes feel distinctive. (Marion actually collects meatloaf recipes; I kid you not.)
from 'What's Cooking in the Benton Sisters' Kitchen? Vol. 1'
Even vegetarians like the Benton sisters get in on loaf-y action, though they use blended lentils instead of ground chuck. Then there’s the Sisters of Christian Charity version, the Crown of Gold Meat Loaf, which features–drumroll please–a mustard meringue topping. (Wait a second–that one came straight from the folks at French’s Mustard, and thanks to the incredible website RecipeCurio, we have the image to prove it.)
Crown of Gold Meatloaf, from RecipeCurio.com
As a child, I hated meatloaf, and it’s only since I became a mom that I actually learned to appreciate it. Now, I have two favorite recipes. The more decadent is from Gourmet and features one of my favorite maligned foods, the lowly prune. (Not to mention bacon. Isn’t everything better with bacon? Vegetarians need not reply.)
The other is my own recipe, adapted from one by Ina Garten, and designed, long before Jessica Seinfeld ever even met Jerry at the gym, to get some vegetables into my vitamin-averse children. It’s really good and very healthy–but not as divine as Gourmet’s. Take your pick. Or tell us your favorite version of this homely but ever-delicious classic.
Paige’s Turkey Meatloaf
Serves 8 or moreI sometimes substitute 1 pound of sweet Italian turkey sausage for 1 pound of the ground turkey.
2 T. olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 zucchini, cut into 1/4 inch dice, or grated in the food processor
2 large carrots, cut into 1/4 inch dice, or grated in the food processor
3 lbs. ground turkey
1 t. dried thyme
1/2 t. kosher salt
1/2 t. freshly ground pepper
1/3 cup Worcestershire sauce
2 T. tomato paste
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1-1/2 cups good bread crumbs or rolled oats
1/2 cup Heinz catsup (I use the organic version, which is made without high fructose corn syrup)Preheat oven to 375 F.
Heat olive oil over medium heat and add onions. Sauté until translucent and add zucchini and carrots. Add thyme, salt and pepper and continue to cook until the vegetables just soften, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and Worcestershire sauce, and stir to combine. Remove from heat.
In a large bowl, combine turkey, eggs, bread crumbs or oats and vegetable mixture. Shape into two loaf shapes on a cookie sheet, and spread catsup generously over the top of each loaf.
Bake for 50-60 minutes. We like to eat this with more Worcestershire sauce on the side.
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My mother used to make meatloaf with spinach laced through it , which was really great, especially cold. I think the mark of a good meatloaf is how good it tastes cold (and a meatloaf sandwich with Peter Luger steak sauce rocks, though the best hot meatloaf I ever had was made by my friend Elizabeth Mayhew and it was stuffed with spinach and mozzarella with some tomato sauce and she served it as a buffet dinner for 24!). Now I have discovered the key to great meatloaf is a mix of beef, veal and pork–and conveniently Guido’s sells meatloaf mix in it butcher shop–and then you bake wrapped in local bacon. Divine.
Paige, you’re a sage. Everything IS better with bacon. In fact, my new theory on life is that with some bacon, some Worcestershire sauce, and a good lipstick, a girl has all she needs to succeed.
Having been vegetarian for 30-ish years, I am often asked what I miss, if anything. Meatloaf is the thing I think of; I liked it with brown gravy, not tomato sauce, and mashed potatoes, or in a sandwich. Meatballs (which after all are sort of the same thing, different shape) are the other thing I miss. Sigh.
Is it OK to admit I’ve never used a recipe to make meatloaf? It’s ground meat, aromatic vegetables, absorbent stuff (bread crumbs, crackers, cereal), seasonings, and a binding agent, yes? That said, every meatloaf I make has its own flavor and character.
There is a specific seasoning I encourage everyone to try: homemade chili sauce. Once I’ve mixed the main ingredients and pressed it all into a loaf pan, I like to trowel on chili sauce made according to the recipe mom followed. It’s a chunky chili sauce and it thickens as the meatloaf cooks…
When the ingredients are in season, I’ll make a batch of chili sauce and post a “how-to” piece on my blog, Your Home Kitchen Garden. In the meantime, you’ve piqued my interest with the meatloaf that demands to be called sirloin… I’ll have to try it.
Coincidentally, while shopping today, I bought some ground beef and a chunk of pork to grind at home for a meatloaf I plan to make tomorrow or the next day. Thanks for sharing with us whose idea it was!
Dan–Yum. Recipes, please??
Marion–don’t forget to add a good bra to that list.
Margaret–come back to the dark side.
Daniel–Welcome! I am so intrigued by the idea of homemade chili sauce that I’m going to pester you in your blog comments until you get around to that post! And since you’re offering up the promise of future how-tos, how do you grind meat at home? Kitchenaid? Real, honest-to-goodness meat grinder? This is a kitchen task I’ve never tackled…
I am a new comer to this site and thought you might like to add a meatloaf recipe that has been passed down from my 88 year old mom, which I in turn have made successfully for years. What’s great about it is that it has no eggs or breadcrumbs.
Ethel’s Meatloaf
Ingredients:
1-11/2 lbs. ground meat
1 peeled idaho potato
1peeled carrot
1small onion
1 garlic clove
Finely grate the potato, carrot, onion and garlic clove into the ground beef.
Add freshly ground pepper, salt to taste, a few dashes of worstershire sauce
Add a teaspoon of garlic powder,onion powder, and paprika.
Put into loaf pan and bake at 350 for about 45 minutes.
At this time combine about 1/2-3/4 cup chili sauce with about 1/2 cup grape jelly. Pour over meatloaf and then bake for another 15 minutes.